Click here to see comments and pics about when to rivet the turtle deck skins to the #4 former.
Reading the Plans or how to avoid problems
One thing that can get you in trouble is not paying attention when the plans give a parts orientation to the actual plane
eg; up , down,frwd ,aft, these are self evident sometimes but most of the time it was the only way to make sense of what your seeing
Good example is the Aft Cross Tie on the Upper Cross Tie Box Assembly.That part will fit right side up or upside down.If you put it in upside down you will find the little brackets that join it to the side panels do not line up.(yeah I got it wrong)
Look closely for the up's ,frwd's and aft's and you will not go wrong
eg; up , down,frwd ,aft, these are self evident sometimes but most of the time it was the only way to make sense of what your seeing
Good example is the Aft Cross Tie on the Upper Cross Tie Box Assembly.That part will fit right side up or upside down.If you put it in upside down you will find the little brackets that join it to the side panels do not line up.(yeah I got it wrong)
Look closely for the up's ,frwd's and aft's and you will not go wrong
On elevator up and down travel( from onexplans forum)
Kerry,
I am now finalizing the tail with the controls. Despite grinding the horn arm
and remove the plate on top of the rear fuse , it is physically impossible to
get the elevator to 25 degree UP (Refer to pics). Up I get 15 degree and Down I
get 23 degree. How can you make that happen?
Rheal,
You may be measuring your travel incorrectly.
The 25 degrees is measured at the chord line, not on the top surface.
I just measured both of our prototypes and when the top surface of the
horizontal is level, the top surface of the elevator in the full elevator up
position is measured at 10-degrees.
Kerry,
As stated before, I am getting 15 degree UP and 23 DOWN from the top surface of
the HOR stab. From the cord, I get 23 degree UP which is acceptable.
I hope this might help someone...
It should be noted that there is now a revision on the IDLER position that will correct the problems people have been having with this.
Canopy fit methods
Re: [onexplans] CanopyPosted By:
I fitted the frame to the fuselage bending the front and rear bows to match the front windshield and the rear turtle deck.( not easy) take your time here
it will pay off later.
I cut 1/2" wooden spacer to hold the rear bow in place using tape to the rear turtle deck. Set the sq tubing side rails inside the longerons to allow for
the canopy thickness. On the hinge side the sq tubing it does not sit on the longeron rail, see drawing this allow for hinge rivets and hinge eyelets.
After your satisfied with the frame fit position canopy on fuselage with frame held in position with tape and the 1/2" wooden spacers to keep from
moving around on you while you fit canopy.
Using masking tape mark the cut line of the canopy following the front windshield, sides and turtle deck. I used a air grinder with a thin 3" cut off wheel.
After you cut smooth edges and position back on fuselage to check fit and repeat till canopy is fitted to frame. With canopy hinge in place and predrilled
#40 I started drilling canopy through predrilled hinge and clecoing as you go. Then working up and over the front and rear frame bows which will pull
canopy in place to match frame. And last I drilled the bottom left side of the canopy to the sq tubing. The canopy will pull into the frame and take shape.
You may have to sand the canopy edges for clearance between the turtle deck and front windshield. Be sure to smooth all edges to relieve stress cracks
and us plexiglas drill bits only when drilling canopy. After this you can tap canopy frame holes and countersink canopy for washers and screws.
I added extra screws in the front canopy bow between whats called for in the drawing, it just help fit the canopy better in the front, but you may not need them. My canopy frame has a slight angle were the frame meets the longeron but the sliding locking mechanism works smooth. So I'm not worried about
the sq tubing not being perfectly square to the top longeron.
One more thing plexiglas loves heat. I have used a small electric heater under the canopy while fitting. Depends on your room temp. Good Luck
Brent #77
- mayo3808
- Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:23 pm |
- Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:23 pm |
- Jim,
I fitted the frame to the fuselage bending the front and rear bows to match the front windshield and the rear turtle deck.( not easy) take your time here
it will pay off later.
I cut 1/2" wooden spacer to hold the rear bow in place using tape to the rear turtle deck. Set the sq tubing side rails inside the longerons to allow for
the canopy thickness. On the hinge side the sq tubing it does not sit on the longeron rail, see drawing this allow for hinge rivets and hinge eyelets.
After your satisfied with the frame fit position canopy on fuselage with frame held in position with tape and the 1/2" wooden spacers to keep from
moving around on you while you fit canopy.
Using masking tape mark the cut line of the canopy following the front windshield, sides and turtle deck. I used a air grinder with a thin 3" cut off wheel.
After you cut smooth edges and position back on fuselage to check fit and repeat till canopy is fitted to frame. With canopy hinge in place and predrilled
#40 I started drilling canopy through predrilled hinge and clecoing as you go. Then working up and over the front and rear frame bows which will pull
canopy in place to match frame. And last I drilled the bottom left side of the canopy to the sq tubing. The canopy will pull into the frame and take shape.
You may have to sand the canopy edges for clearance between the turtle deck and front windshield. Be sure to smooth all edges to relieve stress cracks
and us plexiglas drill bits only when drilling canopy. After this you can tap canopy frame holes and countersink canopy for washers and screws.
I added extra screws in the front canopy bow between whats called for in the drawing, it just help fit the canopy better in the front, but you may not need them. My canopy frame has a slight angle were the frame meets the longeron but the sliding locking mechanism works smooth. So I'm not worried about
the sq tubing not being perfectly square to the top longeron.
One more thing plexiglas loves heat. I have used a small electric heater under the canopy while fitting. Depends on your room temp. Good Luck
Brent #77