Skinning the wings- http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/SNX-W07-02.pdf
Bending flat parts-http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/bending_flat_parts.pdf
Reforming aluminum extrusions- http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/reforming_extrusions.pdf
FAA Manuals
Drill size for dimpled skins
Re: Onex builders
I asked Sonex about the drill sizes for rivets. Below is the reply.
Hi Dana,
The 1/8" rivets are a #30 or a #31 drill, which-ever allows the rivet to
enter without excess slop. Holes which will be dimpled should be drilled
with a #31 or #32.
The 3/32" rivets are a #40 drill.
The solid rivets in the spar are a #21 drill.
Blue Skies,
Kerry Fores
I asked Sonex about the drill sizes for rivets. Below is the reply.
Hi Dana,
The 1/8" rivets are a #30 or a #31 drill, which-ever allows the rivet to
enter without excess slop. Holes which will be dimpled should be drilled
with a #31 or #32.
The 3/32" rivets are a #40 drill.
The solid rivets in the spar are a #21 drill.
Blue Skies,
Kerry Fores
This taken from onexplans.
Re: Horizontal and Vertical Tail fo Fuselage joint
I talked with Kerry about this because it hard to tell from the drawing. You are
correct the aft bulkhead, then vert spar, then horzontal spar and rear horzontal
spar angle. If I understood Kerry the angle only rivets to the horzontal spar.
No spacer needed below vert. See drawing ONX-T03.
Re: Horizontal and Vertical Tail fo Fuselage joint
I talked with Kerry about this because it hard to tell from the drawing. You are
correct the aft bulkhead, then vert spar, then horzontal spar and rear horzontal
spar angle. If I understood Kerry the angle only rivets to the horzontal spar.
No spacer needed below vert. See drawing ONX-T03.
Advice from Brent Mayo on Canopy installation
Jim,
I'm going to try an answer your question and tell you the steps I took fitting the canopy.
I fitted the frame to the fuselage bending the front and rear bows to match the front windshield and the rear turtle deck.( not easy) take your time here
it will pay off later.
I cut 1/2" wooden spacer to hold the rear bow in place using tape to the rear turtle deck. Set the sq tubing side rails inside the longerons to allow for
the canopy thickness. On the hinge side the sq tubing it does not sit on the longeron rail, see drawing this allow for hinge rivets and hinge eyelets.
After your satisfied with the frame fit position canopy on fuselage with frame held in position with tape and the 1/2" wooden spacers to keep from
moving around on you while you fit canopy.
Using masking tape mark the cut line of the canopy following the front windshield, sides and turtle deck. I used a air grinder with a thin 3" cut off wheel.
After you cut smooth edges and position back on fuselage to check fit and repeat till canopy is fitted to frame. With canopy hinge in place and predrilled
#40 I started drilling canopy through predrilled hinge and clecoing as you go. Then working up and over the front and rear frame bows which will pull
canopy in place to match frame. And last I drilled the bottom left side of the canopy to the sq tubing. The canopy will pull into the frame and take shape.
You may have to sand the canopy edges for clearance between the turtle deck and front windshield. Be sure to smooth all edges to relieve stress cracks
and us plexiglas drill bits only when drilling canopy. After this you can tap canopy frame holes and countersink canopy for washers and screws.
I added extra screws in the front canopy bow between whats called for in the drawing, it just help fit the canopy better in the front, but you may not need them. My canopy frame has a slight angle were the frame meets the longeron but the sliding locking mechanism works smooth. So I'm not worried about
the sq tubing not being perfectly square to the top longeron.
One more thing plexiglas loves heat. I have used a small electric heater under the canopy while fitting. Depends on your room temp. Good Luck
Brent #77
